Cont'd -  Router table project with integrated Triton 2.25HP router



Above, the torsion box members are oriented and marked for installation to the underside of the router table top.
The router table, once complete, will stand on 4 sets of 2X4 pairs ( 1 set per corner). I am aligning the torsion box
members in relation to some 2X4 cutoff pieces above. I plan to have the outer part of the router table clad in
3/4 inch baltic birch plywood and need to allow for this.

 

Above, the the outer torsion box members are screwed and glued to the underside of the router table top.
This is the most important step in setting up the torsion box as the space from the outside members
of the torsion box to the edges of the router table top need to allow for the combined thickness of  a 1.5 inch
thick 2X4 leg and the 3/4 inch cladding. There are various ways to accomplish this, I chose to use this method.



Above, installation of the glued and screwed torsion box members is now complete following the layout lines
which were previously drawn on the underside of the router table top. I use 1.25 inch #6 screws for this along
with applying glue to each member. Next I begin attaching the bottom panels to the torsion box.
 


Above, the completed torsion box with both top, bottom, and all torsion box frame members glued and screwed
together. Once the glue sets, this assembly is exceptionally rigid and flat. It is critical to have the torsion box inner
frame members exactly the same width or height. I have used a tablesaw to accurately cut these torsion box
frame members or pieces. The front of the router table has been purposely left less obstructed to be able to more
easily access the router itself from the underside of the router table.
 


Above, top view of the assembled router table top and torsion box base. I use a Veritas steel straight edge to
confirm that the table top is perfectly flat in all directions, and it is.
 
 

Above, router table top with router insert installed. The bit adjustment is oriented towards the front of the table.
This orientation was taken into consideration when orienting the Triton router on the new Veritas base plate.
The Triton router also has a built-in dust port which is now oriented towards the rear side of the router table.
I will be using a 1.5 inch flexible vacuum hose attached to the router from below to evacuate dust chips and dust
from below the table. This hose will be part of a Wye connection to the router table fence dust port.

 

Above, the components I will use to build the base for the router table. The base consists of 2X4 pairs in each
corner as can be seen above. The legs are cut to 36 inches providing a final table height of approx. 37 inches.
The table legs are attached to the outside of the torsion box on either side of the corner with flooring screws.

 

Above, I clamp 2 pairs of legs in one direction while screwing them into the router table torsion box.
This holds them tight against the frame since this measurement is critical for the outside sheathing of
3/4 in. baltic birch plywood.

 

Above, a closer view of clamping two pairs of legs together against the torsion box frame for screwing.

 



Above, the table legs assembled and bolted to the router table. I also checked to make sure the table top is
level in both directions. The table height is 3-4 inches higher ( 37 inches) than my previous router table which
is preferable to me.

 



Above, I begin applying the outer skirt of the router table. This consists of 12 in. wide pieces of 3/4 in.
baltic birch plywood. The skirt or cladding serves both to reinforce the router table base, minimize any
possibility of racking and to keep any dust and wood chips contained within the router table area.
Later, I will add hardwood edging to both the router table top and to the top area of this cladding.

 

Above, the cladding of the router table has been completed and the table is set upright once again. The edges
of the router table top are flush with the baltic birch skirt or cladding. Soon, I will apply hardwood edging along
the top part of the router table. The table is rock solid and has sufficient mass at this point.
 

Above, the table with Triton router installed. The above table router bit adjustment tool is installed and tested
and it works fine. The router can easily be installed and accessed from the bottom of the table. The Triton router
also has both coarse and fine adjustment knobs easily accessible from beneath the table. Many more steps
are to follow including building an adjustable fence, installing hardwood edging, setting up dust collection,
installing a power switch, and applying finish to the router table top.


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