Part 3 -  Router Table Plan



                      

                      Above, the router table has edging applied, pieces of some scrap hardwood I had available in the shop. 
                      The edging is approximately 9/16 inches wide and the depth corresponds to the thickness of the baltic birch 
                      plywood. The edging has mitered corners and is glued and nailed to the router table top. A pair of square 
                      notches have been cut from the edging at the rear of the table to allow removal and insertion of the adjustable 
                      fence. I have also begun to apply finish , thinned wipe-on poly, to the the router table top.

                      Above, the components for the router table sub-fence have been cut to size. The sub-fence will be 34 inches long,
                      slightly wider than the router table surface. This is to allow for the adjustable face to clear larger router bits. 
                      The sub-fence is composed of two 3.5 inch widths, accurately cut on the table saw. The shorter cut-off above will 
                      serve to make reinforcing triangles for application along the length of the sub-fence.

                      Above, the two sub-fence components have an opening created in the center to allow for router bit clearance.
                      I have created this opening approx. 3 inches wide and 1/2 the height of the sub-fence face. The two sub-fence 
                      components are accurately taped together and the opening created on the table saw with the pieces vertical 
                      to the table saw fence. A series of cuts are made slowly creating the square cavity. This operation can also be
                      performed on a bandsaw although it will take more time.

                      Above, the sub-fence components glued and screwed together. Care is taken to keep the two parts perfectly
                      oriented at 90 degrees and flat to the surface of the router table. Later, I will make the two adjustable fence
                      halves which form the main fence. These will be made of hardwood with adjustment slots ,T-track will also
                      be installed for future fence options such as stop blocks and feather boards.

                      Above, the reinforcing triangles are cut from a scrap piece of baltic birch plywood. This operation is well-suited
                      to the tablesaw since it is very important that the triangle faces are perfectly perpendicular to each other. 
                      The piece of baltic birch was previously accurately ripped to width on the tablesaw.

                      Above, the rectangular blocks which will be used to create the reinforcing triangles are visible. I have cut 
                      down the line on a bandsaw to form the triangles.

                      Above, once the reinforcing triangles are glued and screwed in, the fence is checked for square with the router
                      table top. This check was also performed earlier before glue up and if  the fence was not square one option is to   
                      shim the reinforcing triangles. The reinforcing triangles are spaced to provide maximum space on either side of the 
                      fence for the fence adjusting knobs and cam locks to lock the fence in place. The spacing also allows for the dust
                      collection port to be installed soon.

                      

                      Above, sub-fence with reinforcing triangles installed. The extra length of the fence can be seen, this to provide
                      extra support when the adjustable hardwood fence faces are opened up to clear larger router bits.

                      Above, the completed sub-fence assembly with cam locking devices installed. The hardware uses 1/4 in. -20
                      bolts. The fence is tested for proper operation. Next I will make the adjustable hardwood fence halves.
 
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