Cont'd -
Router table project with integrated Triton 2.25HP router
Above, the router table has edging applied,
pieces of some scrap hardwood I had available in the shop.
The edging is approximately 9/16 inches wide and the depth corresponds to the
thickness of the baltic birch
plywood. The edging has mitered corners and is glued and nailed to the router
table top. A pair of square
notches have been cut from the edging at the rear of the table to allow removal
and insertion of the adjustable
fence. I have also begun to apply finish , thinned wipe-on poly, to the the router table top.
Above, the components for the router table
sub-fence have been cut to size. The sub-fence will be 34 inches long,
slightly wider than the router table surface. This is to allow for the
adjustable face to clear larger router bits.
The sub-fence is composed of two 3.5 inch widths, accurately cut on the table
saw. The shorter cut-off above will
serve to make reinforcing triangles for application along the length of the sub-fence.
Above, the two sub-fence components have an
opening created in the center to allow for router bit clearance.
I have created this opening approx. 3 inches wide and 1/2 the height of the
sub-fence face. The two sub-fence
components are accurately taped together and the opening created on the table
saw with the pieces vertical
to the table saw fence. A series of cuts are made slowly creating the square
cavity. This operation can also be
performed on a bandsaw although it will take more time.
Above, the sub-fence components glued and screwed
together. Care is taken to keep the two parts perfectly
oriented at 90 degrees and flat to the surface of the router table. Later, I
will make the two adjustable fence
halves which form the main fence. These will be made of hardwood with adjustment
slots ,T-track will also
be installed for future fence options such as stop blocks and feather boards.
Above, the reinforcing triangles are cut from a
scrap piece of baltic birch plywood. This operation is well-suited
to the tablesaw since it is very important that the triangle faces are perfectly
perpendicular to each other.
The piece of baltic birch was previously accurately ripped to width on the
tablesaw.
Above, the rectangular blocks which will be used
to create the reinforcing triangles are visible. I have cut
down the line on a bandsaw to form the triangles.
Above, once the reinforcing triangles are glued
and screwed in, the fence is checked for square with the router
table top. This check was also performed earlier before glue up and if the
fence was not square one option is to shim the
reinforcing triangles. The reinforcing triangles are spaced to provide maximum
space on either side of the fence for the
fence adjusting knobs and cam locks to lock the fence in place. The spacing also
allows for the dust collection port
to be installed soon.
Above, sub-fence with reinforcing triangles installed. The extra length of the
fence can be seen, this to provide
extra support when the adjustable hardwood fence faces are opened up to clear larger
router bits.
Above, the completed sub-fence assembly with cam
locking devices installed. The hardware uses 1/4 in. -20
bolts. The fence is tested for proper operation. Next I will make the
adjustable hardwood fence halves.