Part
4 -
Router Table Plan
Above, the components for the fence are laid out.
The two fence halves have been cut to size at 4 inches
wide and 17 inches long. The fence halves combined are 34 inches long , but once
installed will overhang
the sub-fence by approximately 3/4 inch on either end of the sub-fence. This to
allow for medium to large
router bits. The individual fence halves are 3/4 inch thick cherry hardwood. The
inside edges are beveled
to allow for router bit clearance and to aid the air flow to the dust collection inlet.
36 inch T-slot strips are
ready to be cut to size. The fence halves will be attached to the sub-fence with
T-tracks and 1/4 -20 bolts
and knobs also visible above. The other T-slot strip will form the accessory strip
on the outside face of the
fence halves. Also visible is a plastic dust collection inlet at the rear center
of the sub-fence. This is
simply
bolted on to the open area behind the sub-fence and was purchased at a
local woodworking
equipment
supplier. Next I will create a channel for the T-tracks on the fence
halves. In this instance,
I use a router
with a 3/4 inch bit, the width of the T-tracks.
Above, the fence halves have had the 3/4 inch
wide grooves routed to a depth of approx. 3/8 inches.
The T-track pieces have been cut to size and I will epoxy and screw the T-slot
components onto the
fence halves. The location of the T-slot tracks is dependant on the height of
the fence. In this case,
I have chosen to place the T-slot which fastens each fence half to the sub-fence
in the middle of the
fence half. The T-slot on the front face of the fence half is located approx.
3/4 inches down from the top
of the fence. It is important to set these T-slot tracks to allow for higher
router bit settings which might
make contact with the T-slot tracks otherwise. In the photo above, the upper
fence half demonstrates the
accessory T-slot track , whereas the lower fence half demonstrates the rear
T-slot track which both joins
the fence to the sub-fence and allows it to be adjusted left to right.
Above, the rear of the fence halves displaying
the installed T-slot track which provides for left to right
adjustment. The holes in the sub-fence for the 1/4-20 bolts will be drilled
later.
Above the fence halves completed and the
sub-fence is ready to be drilled for the 1/4-20 bolts. There are other
methods of attaching the fence halves to the sub-fence with allowance for
adjustment, but I chose this method.
This method provides a cleaner fence face without any bolt holes. The individual
fence halves have been checked
with a steel straightedge and are perfectly flat. This is an important
consideration when selecting hardwood for the
fence halves, a straight , stable wood is necessary..
Above, the mounting bolts and knobs have been
installed through the sub-fence and fence. Since the bolts are
1/4-20 size, I drilled 9/32 size holes, slightly oversize. The hardwood fence
halves are checked for free travel
at this point. The fence halves also need to be co-planar, in the same plane,
and this is checked with all
bolts tightened. The fence is also tested to be perpendicular to the router
table surface.
Above, a updated view of the front of the router
table. I have installed a cross-member along the front to prevent
racking and to further strengthen the router table base. The cross-member or
lower rail was only added now since
I needed to determine how much clearance is needed to install and remove the
Triton router from underneath the
table. At this point, the router table is very rigid and has good mass. I have
also begun to apply final finish
(polyurethane applied with a rag) along the plywood sides of the table.
Above, the dust collection is installed. I have a
4 in. Wye leading to the underside of the table and to the router
fence inlet. The Triton plunge router has it's own integrated dust collection
port, a 1.25 in. ID hose is necessary
which screws into the port. The hose leading from the router table fence is 2.5
in. in diameter, both connected
through reducers to the main 4 in. dust collection line via a blast gate.
Above, a overhead view of the dust collection
system. The hoses are attached to the fittings with adjustable
band clamps with keys for quick release. A safety power switch has also been
installed. This switch has
a paddle lever to quickly turn the router off in case of an emergency. It also
includes a key to disable the
switch once removed. This particular switch has an integrated receptacle for the
router plug to enable me
to unplug the router and remove and use it free hand outside the table. The switch, hose and fittings were
purchased at a local woodworking supply store.
Above, a overhead view of the router table, fence
, dust collection and power switch installed. At this point, the
router table is ready to be tested.
Above, an overhead view of the router table in
greater detail. The router table has been tested and the router
bit raising feature has also been tested. I have also removed the plunge spring in
the Triton router for table operation
as per the instruction manual, this to reduce tension and make above table bit
adjustments easier. The weight of the
Triton router is sufficient to keep the router bit adjustment from moving. The Triton router
also has a soft-start feature
which
keeps the router from developing
full torque for a second or two, a nice feature.
Above, a view of the router table with adjustable
stop blocks installed. I quickly made these up to test the
T-slot tracks in the fence halves. In the future, I also plan to make a feather board for the
fence.
Above, the completed router table in full
regalia. I have added both a front and rear lower horizontal rail to
further
reinforce the base and to eliminate any possible racking. The router table has been
tested for proper operation
with both 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch
router bits. The Triton router includes interchangeable collets ( 1/4
and 1/2 inch).
This router table setup also allows for above table bit changes.
The router knobs are easily accessed from below,
cranked to raise the collet nut for above table
access utilizing the single wrench shown
behind the
power switch.
The Triton router also has a power switch interlock which
needs to be activated to lock the
spindle for router bit
changes. This switch interlock is also easily accessed through the front
opening of the router table. I find that
I hardly ever need to crouch down and can easily perform all router bit changes
and adjustments while standing.