Router table project with integrated Triton 2.25
HP plunge router
The dimensions chosen for this particular router
table are 32 inches wide and 24 inches deep. These dimensions
are variable and should be based on your requirements. I have chosen to offset
the router
insert towards the
front of the table since this is where most routing is performed. The design of
this table also provides for
use of the rear of the table when a larger table surface is required. This is
performed by simply flipping the fence
around and routing in the opposite direction. I have decided to not incorporate
a miter slot and instead will build
a router sled to be able to rout at right angles to the table. Another
decision was to build the router table top
as a torsion box with glued and screwed internal supports or webbing, this to
eliminate any possibility
of table sag. The torsion box will be very rigid and unable to sag due to its
inherent I-beam design characteristics.
There are two 3/4 in. slots on either side of the router which will house 1/4-20
aluminum T-tracks ( 3/8 in. X 3/4in.).
The T-tracks provide the fastening and adjustment of the adjustable fence.
The router table top itself is 3/4 in. thick.
The inspiration for the router table top and fence originate from an earlier Popular Woodworking
article.
My criteria for this router table are:
- my preferred table height ( 37 inches)
- table dimensions which suit the type of work I do ( 32 in. wide X 24 in.
deep)
- simple to build, using standard dimensioned lumber
- flexibility of fence orientation on table top
- good dust collection
- ease of accessing the router from the top or bottom
- ease of removing router for hand held use
- ability to both adjust router bit height and change router bits from top
- eliminate possibility of table sag
- to incorporate rigidity and mass in table
I chose the Veritas circular router base plate kit to
mount the Triton router. This router plate kit has some
interesting features such as rigidity, ease of adapting and installing a router
to, and can be removed from
underneath the table. The low cost of the router plate kit, very good directions
for mounting a router,
and a small footprint ( 9
inches diameter) of the plate
were also deciding factors.
Above, after removing the Triton router factory
base plate, a clear plastic template is installed on the metal
base to begin the process of installing the Veritas router plate. The plastic
template is part of the Veritas kit
and along with an included 1/2 inch pin serves as an alignment tool to mark and transfer
the base plate holes
to the
Veritas plate. The router mounting holes are transferred to the template above
using a small pin through
the plastic template. The plastic template is temporarily taped to the Triton
base to keep it oriented correctly.
Above, the same plastic template is transferred
to the Veritas circular plate along with the 1/2 inch pin
and an included washer. The washer is used to center the pin in the new router plate. The pin holes created
earlier are transferred
to
the plastic plate using a pin punch. The marked holes are drilled through using
a
countersink bit provided with
the Veritas kit. This bit also forms the countersink for the router mounting
screws.
Above, the freshly drilled Veritas plate is
temporarily mounted to the router base using the 1/2 inch pin and
washer. This centers the Veritas plate on the router bottom. Once centered, a
trammel bar is installed on the
pin and two 3/16 inch holes drilled on the outer circumference of the Veritas
plate. These holes will serve
as pivot points for the router when routing out the hole for the insert. You
will also notice another hole in the
Veritas plate at the top. This 1/2 inch hole allows the above table adjustment
tool to attach to the router raising
and lowering mechanism. The Triton instructions specify where to drill this
adjustment hole on the router plate.
Above, the Veritas router plate with all holes
drilled and countersunk. To the left are instructions to use the
router with the new Veritas base plate attached to rout a corresponding lipped
hole in the router table using
the small index holes previously drilled on the edge of the router plate. These
two holes and the provided pin
serve as pivot points for the router.
The bolt and rubber sleeve on the edge of the new router plate serve to
keep
the router plate locked
in the table, to keep it oriented, and to prevent any side to side movement..
Above, the new router plate bolted to the Triton router. The router bit
adjustment hole is also visible along with
the locking pin on the edge of the router plate which was mentioned earlier. The
screws used to bolt the router
to the new router plate are flat topped and recessed to just below the surface of
the router plate.
Above, one of the other steps involved in
routing out the router plate hole. These steps are very well
explained in the literature provided with the Veritas router plate. You will
also notice the layout lines
drawn out on the underside of the table. These layout lines are used for
measuring and orienting the torsion
box inner frame members.
Above, the top of the router table with the
router plate insert routed out but still attached to the router table.
The 1/2 inch diameter metal pin is inserted in center hole of the router plate mount and
is used to pivot the
router
around to create the router plate recess. The router is pivoted from the small
3/16 in. diameter holes
drilled through the outer circumference of the new router plate. These 3/16 in.
plate holes fit the 3/16 in. pin
at the center of the hole above. The T-slot tracks are also dadoed in
at this point. The dadoes are
approximately
5 inches from the edges of the router table top. These dadoes will
house the 3/8 in. deep
X 3/4 in. wide
T-track aluminum channels.
Above, a view of of the 3/4 in. baltic birch
router table top table with 3/4 in. dadoes and router insert hole created.
The dadoes were created on a table saw with a dado setup. The router table top was run
against the table saw
fence to create
the dadoes. I have taped the hole to keep from damaging it during
construction of the router table.
Above, the underside of the router table with
markings for the individual frame menbers of the torsion box.
The outside edges of the router table will have edging installed once complete.
You can also see the larger
components in each corner. These are 2X4 leg pairs to hold the table up at approx. 36
inches. There will be
a
reinforcing skirt around the upper section of the router table consisting of 3/4
inch baltic birch panels.
The small routed ears or openings on either side of the router table slot allow
the router to be removed from
underneath the table.
Above, the Veritas router table plate test-fitted
to the new router table top. The depth of the router plate lip
is critical and the plate should be flush or just slightly below the table top.
Above, the Triton 2.25 HP plunge router. This
router is ideal for router table mounting and includes the above table
router bit height adjustment tool.
Above, the router table top now has the T-slot
tracks installed. These tracks have been both epoxied and screwed
into the router table top. The spacing of the tracks from the outside
edges is critical and should be exactly the same
to provide the flexibility of reversing the fence on the router table top. The
fence can be reversed to use either the front
or rear of the router table for routing. Since the router plate is offset to the
front of the table, the rear of the table allows
more table area available when routing wider boards.
Above, holes have been pre-drilled through the
underside for mounting the torsion box frame members.
The holes are evenly spaced in this case. The area surrounding the router itself
is left open to
be able to access the different router adjustments, knobs, and on/off switch.
Also, this provides
room for router heat dissipation and the below table dust collection I have
planned for later.
Next I will flip the table top over and countersink the pre-drilled holes for
installation of mounting screws.
Above, the same holes are countersunk through the
router table top. Once the table is completely assembled
I plan to fill these holes before applying a protective finish to the table top.