The dimensions
chosen for this particular router table are 32 inches wide and 24 inches
deep. These dimensions
are variable and should be based on your
requirements. I have chosen to offset the router insert towards
the
front of the table since this is where most
routing is performed. The design of this table also provides for use of
the rear of the table when a larger table surface
is required. This is performed by simply flipping the fence around
and routing in the opposite direction. I have
decided to not incorporate a miter slot and instead will build a router
sled to be able to rout at right angles to the
table. Another decision was to build the router table top as a torsion
box with glued and screwed internal supports or
webbing, this to eliminate any possibility of table sag. The torsion
box will be very rigid and unable to sag due to
its inherent I-beam design characteristics.
There are two 3/4 in. slots on either side of the
router which will house 1/4-20 aluminum T-tracks ( 3/8 in. X 3/4in.).
The T-tracks provide the fastening and adjustment
of the adjustable fence. The router table top itself is 3/4 in. thick.
The criteria
for this router table are:
- my preferred
table height ( 37 inches)
- table dimensions which suit the type of work I
do ( 32 in. wide X 24 in. deep)
- simple to build, using standard dimensioned
lumber
- flexibility of fence orientation on table top
- good dust collection
- ease of accessing the router from the top or
bottom
- ease of removing router for hand held use
- ability to both adjust router bit height and
change router bits from top
- eliminate possibility of table sag
- to incorporate rigidity and mass in table
I chose the
Veritas circular router base plate kit to mount the Triton router. This
router plate kit has some
interesting features such as rigidity, ease of
adapting and installing a router to, and can be removed from
underneath the table. The low cost of the router
plate kit, very good directions for mounting a router,
and a small footprint ( 9 inches diameter) of the
plate were also deciding factors.
Above, after
removing the Triton router factory base plate, a clear plastic template
is installed on the metal
base to begin the process of installing the
Veritas router plate. The plastic template is part of the Veritas kit
and along with an included 1/2 inch pin serves as
an alignment tool to mark and transfer the base plate holes
to the Veritas plate. The router mounting holes
are transferred to the template above using a small pin through
the plastic template. The plastic template is
temporarily taped to the Triton base to keep it oriented correctly.
Above, the
same plastic template is transferred to the Veritas circular plate along
with the 1/2 inch pin and an
included washer. The washer is used to center the
pin in the new router plate. The pin holes created earlier are
transferred to the plastic plate using a pin
punch. The marked holes are drilled through using a countersink bit
provided with the Veritas kit. This bit also
forms the countersink for the router mounting screws.
Above, the
freshly drilled Veritas plate is temporarily mounted to the router base
using the 1/2 inch pin and
washer. This centers the Veritas plate on the
router bottom. Once centered, a trammel bar is installed on the
pin and two 3/16 inch holes drilled on the outer
circumference of the Veritas plate. These holes will serve as
pivot points for the router when routing out the
hole for the insert. You will also notice another hole in the
Veritas plate at the top. This 1/2 inch hole
allows the above table adjustment tool to attach to the router raising
and lowering mechanism. The Triton instructions
specify where to drill this adjustment hole on the router plate.
Above, the Veritas router
plate with all holes drilled and countersunk. To the left are
instructions to use the
router with the new Veritas base plate attached
to rout a corresponding lipped hole in the router table using
the small index holes previously drilled on the
edge of the router plate. These two holes and the provided pin
serve as pivot points for the router. The bolt
and rubber sleeve on the edge of the new router plate serve to
keep the router plate locked in the table, to
keep it oriented, and to prevent any side to side movement..
Above, the new router plate bolted to the Triton
router. The router bit adjustment hole is also visible along with
the locking pin on the edge of the router plate
which was mentioned earlier. The screws used to bolt the router
to the new router plate are flat topped and
recessed to just below the surface of the router plate.
Above, one of the other steps
involved in routing out the router plate hole. These steps are well
explained in the
literature provided with the Veritas router plate.
You will also notice the layout lines drawn out on the underside
of the table. These layout lines are used for
measuring and orienting the torsion box inner frame members.
Above, the top
of the router table with the router plate insert routed out but still
attached to the router table.
The 1/2 inch diameter metal pin is inserted in
center hole of the router plate mount and is used to pivot the
router around to create the router plate recess.
The router is pivoted from the small 3/16 in. diameter holes
drilled through the outer circumference of the
new router plate. These 3/16 in. plate holes fit the 3/16 in. pin
at the center of the hole above. The T-slot
tracks are also dadoed in at this point. The dadoes are approximately
5 inches from the edges of the router table top.
These dadoes will house the 3/8 in. deep X 3/4 in. wide
T-track aluminum channels.
Above, a view
of of the 3/4 in. baltic birch router table top table with 3/4 in.
dadoes and router insert hole created.
The dadoes were created on a table saw with a
dado setup. The router table top was run against the table saw
fence to create the dadoes. I have taped the hole
to keep from damaging it during construction of the router table.
Above, the
underside of the router table with markings for the individual frame
menbers of the torsion box.
The outside edges of the router table will have
edging installed once complete. You can also see the larger
components in each corner. These are 2X4 leg
pairs to hold the table up at approx. 36 inches. There will be
a reinforcing skirt around the upper section of
the router table consisting of 3/4 inch baltic birch panels.
The small routed ears or openings on either side
of the router table slot allow the router to be removed from
underneath the table.
Above, the
Veritas router table plate test-fitted to the new router table top. The
depth of the router plate lip is
critical and the plate should be flush or just
slightly below the table top.
Above, the
Triton 2.25 HP plunge router. This router is ideal for router table
mounting and includes the above table
router bit height adjustment tool.
Above, the
router table top now has the T-slot tracks installed. These tracks have
been both epoxied and screwed
into the router table top. The spacing of the
tracks from the outside edges is critical and should be exactly the
same to provide the flexibility of reversing the
fence on the router table top. The fence can be reversed to use either
the front or rear of the router table for
routing. Since the router plate is offset to the front of the table, the
rear of the
table allows more table area available when
routing wider boards.
Above, holes
have been pre-drilled through the underside for mounting the torsion box
frame members. The holes
are evenly spaced in this case. The area
surrounding the router itself is left open to be able to access the
different
router adjustments, knobs, and on/off switch.
Also, this provides room for router heat dissipation and the below
table dust collection I have planned for later.
Next I will flip the table top over and countersink the pre-drilled
holes
for installation of mounting screws.
Above, the
same holes are countersunk through the router table top. Once the table
is completely assembled
I plan to fill these holes before applying a
protective finish to the table top.
